The palate of Pakistan through a rich culture filled with familial food and the burgeoning fine dining restaurants of its cities.

Tuesday 24 January 2012

The Deli: Five years and one great restaurant


On it’s fifth anniversary, The Deli has grown from a small sandwich shop to a bustling restaurant keeping true to its fresh is best philosophy.


The new interior is as inviting as the food and with its spacious renovations The Deli is celebrating its passion for gastronomy. 

It was five years ago that friends Tina Mehdi and Rabab Zaidi felt that takeout was scarcely fresh and fast, leading them to put their heads together to do something about it. Necessity is the mother of invention and that is what Tina and Rabab tried to do. Fresh bread, fresh ingredients and fresh salads made up the menu of their project which they called The Deli.



“The reason this whole idea occurred to us was because there were only two sandwich places. Both Rabab and I were working at the time and we had daughters with dietary restrictions so we just wanted a place where we could grab something on the way home,” explains Tina about the idea behind The Deli. “We did our research and didn’t just jump into it.”

Research was extensive as both owners worked on the project for two years before opening its doors. A small space with a table or two on Zamzama served as the premises for what was conceptualized for takeaway only. “Initially we wanted to do prêt a manger (French for ready to eat), which people are used to being biryani and the like, but it wouldn’t work with a niche market. We decided to open a deli, but unlike in the west, where a deli has cold cuts and cold food which people just pick up. Pakistanis like to eat their food hot and prefer a dine-in experience, unlike foreign countries where everyone is constantly on the go. I visited Rome this summer and people were standing around at a sandwich shop and walking and eating.”

Despite catering to the tastes of the locals, The Deli has always had one focus to which it has always stayed true: fresh food!

The Ravioli Florentine’s success lies in its surprisingly light, secret homemade herb dough filled with cheeses and vegetables.

Five years on The Deli has grown from a tiny Zamzama sandwich shop to a thriving restaurant with an extensive menu. The newly renovated eatery’s décor is a creative use of space with a printed wallpaper and chandelier that moves the eye upward, expanding the space. Even today the well-known and loved sandwiches and salads are available with Mediterranean, Thai and Italian dishes added to the menu. Tina is trained in Thai cuisine herself from Thailand and her passion and constant innovation has made itself evident throughout the menu. The Steamed Rice Wrapper Rolls with two dipping sauces are one of those delicate Thai dishes that exude fresh flavour and is a break from the usual greasy fried rolls. None of the fish dishes, regardless of the preparation, are hampered by a thick sauce. This is the chance for the fish’s own texture and flavour to shine on the plate. If fish is fresh it hardly ever wants to be overpowered by any other element. The Greek Style Fish with Avocado Salsa is one of the Mediterranean influenced additions that is testament to a deft touch with seasoning. The gremolata added herby freshness to the fish though the salsa could have had much more buttery avocado.

During the meal a fellow diner commented on the meals taste experience, “Nothing is overpowering or drenched in sauce. The dishes are all subtle and well proportioned with just the right amount of seasoning.”

That may be easy to achieve in a fish and salsa dish, but what about one that has cheese as the main component? To test out the theory, the Ravioli Florentine was put to the test. The homemade pasta is infused with herbs and it took Tina a lot of trial and error to perfect the pasta recipe which has resulted in triumph - the pasta is soft and the feta and ricotta cheese filling keep the ravioli’s flavour light on the palate. The ravioli is unlike most pasta entrees which end up being too carb-heavy or creamy. For beef lovers, the Steak with Burgundy Sauce showcased a hearty beef taste from the sauce, which is cooked with beef bones for a truly umami experience.

Pakistan is a meat lover’s paradise which makes it a vegetarian’s nightmare, but The Deli is aware of growing vegetarian needs and has created options for non-meat eaters. Many mature palates don’t enjoy sickly sweet desserts and The Deli is using the same sleight of hand in their desserts as they are in their appetizers and entrees. Chocolate is a much loved ingredient in desserts or even on its own, and the Lindt Chocolate Brownie captures the bittersweet combination perfectly.

Beyond the restaurant, The Deli is focusing on many new innovations as they had when the idea to open a fresh sandwich shop struck. Tina is working on doing organic food with produce from Sungold Organic, she says, “They’re a great husband and wife team who are actually doing organic without just claiming to, like most people.”

One of the many vegetarian dishes, the Falafel Sandwich gives non-meat eaters a healthy and complete meal.

The Deli also caters and has worked on everything from corporate meetings, fashion events to dinners for 500 people. Soon busy professionals anywhere in Karachi will be able to get lunchboxes delivered from the restaurant which most Zamzama eateries wouldn’t be able to handle. For women looking to relax with their gal pals they will have the chance to indulge in The Deli’s upcoming hi-tea.

On the fifth anniversary of The Deli, Tina and Rabab have seen their vision through and they toast their diners who have stuck by them and they stick by The Deli because of its dedication to quality fresh food in a welcoming environment.
 
The article was originally published in Instep Today, The News. Click here for the original article.

2 comments:

  1. It's so good to see you writing again! Is their steak any good though? Would love to see you do a rundown of places that do a good steak - I'm a fan. And very hungry right now!

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    1. Thanks so much for your comment, Zainab!
      Time and wallet permitting, I'd love to do a steak review. The Deli had a good steak with an excellent sauce; be sure to specify your steak temperature.

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