A trip to Dhoraji Market + Fish Recipe

It’s called Dhoraji. The famous Rangoonwala Hall leads you to the heart of the market as it slopes down to the even more famous gola ganda (shaved ice) stands. But blink and you’ve missed Dhoraji market.

Nestled between fruit and vegetable vendors is the market that shows you the way only if you really know where you’re going. Much like Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. The mouth of the lane opens into a treasure trove of shops and stalls for every staple one’s kitchen could need; grains, flour, rice, fruits, vegetables. At the back of the lane you find proteins, mutton, beef and chicken. My quest brought me here for my supply of seafood which has its home at the very end of the alley, which unfortunately doesn’t magically dismantle itself to take you to another dimension, though the fishy fumes might. The fishmonger, from the corner of this make shift cul-de-sac, greets me graciously taking only a moment to look up from descaling someone’s Red Snapper to flash me a bright smile. The smell is quite, let’s just say, pungent. Vats of fish and shrimp are on display and while you’re looking for your favorite kind of seafood be careful not to slip on the slick ground.

Shrimps are cleaned and deveined by hand and it’s the only way to do it. Better you than me.

I ask for the saltwater shrimp and white Pomfret, also known as Butterfish. In the local language it’s pronounced Pamplet. The fishmonger will weigh out and prepare your fish exactly how you want it. I take my fish simply gutted, the head removed and scales cleaned. I like to keep the tail fins intact, they crisp up really nicely and is usually what I nibble on first. The fish remains whole so that it can be fried and with slits so the marinade penetrates deep into the flesh.

While I wait for my order to be prepared, a fragile old lady is seated on a plastic chair. “How do you prepare your fish? Do you cook it in your own masala or do you use the stuff that comes in a packet?” she unabashedly shoots a barrage of questions my way equal only to an automatic weapon with the expertise of a seasoned Pakistani mother-in-law. I explain that I do indeed use my own spice paste and a little presoaking of the fish in vinegar and water livens it up a bit. She’s intrigued and my chest puffs up just a little bit. After all this is Pakistan the older generation never tires of telling us how much we can learn from them.

“But how do you keep it from sticking to the pan? The fish sticks to the pan and the skin comes off with the flesh.” So I give her a few pointers - make sure the pan is well heated before putting your fish in and fry your fish in a karahi. A karahi or wok will prevent the fish from sticking and it’ll give you the cooking effect of a deep fryer. She’s actually quite happy with the tips and we make small talk about where we’re both from. She has her fish filleted because “the kids won’t eat it, if it has bones” and takes the head and bones with her since “the servants cook the fish stock in rice.” We continue to share pleasantries until she takes her shopping for the day and goes home to prepare a meal for her grandkids. I stroll around Dhoraji market long enough to buy some lemons to add to my seafood and mangoes for dessert.

I usually frequent the supermarkets with their pristine décor, plastic wrapped goods and gourmet coffee bars but at Dhoraji I’m reminded of the small joys of fresh food and friendly chatter. I’m already looking forward to my next trip.

Fried Pomfret

Serves 6 people

Ingredients:

1 kg Pomfret Fish, or 6 medium size fish,

½ tsp Turmeric Powder

1 tbsp Red Chilli Powder

3 tbsp Soy Sauce

1 tbsp Ginger Garlic Paste

1 tsp White Cumin Powder

½ tsp Black Pepper Powder

1 tsp Salt

3 tbsp Lemon Juice, preferably freshly squeezed

Procedure:

1. Mix all the spices together with the juice.
2. Coat the fish in the mix well, making sure the extra masala goes in the slits.
3. Marinate the fish for 5-10 minutes. Fry in a wok with enough oil to submerge the fish a little more than half way.
4. Serve immediately.

Note: Leaving out the Chilli Powder entirely is also fine but I prefer the heat.

*Tip: If not using fish immediately let soak in water (just enough to cover), vinegar (1 tbsp) and salt (1 tbsp) for 5 mins. Remove, rinse and freeze. Then thaw and prepare as above.

Fish Recipe Photograph By Kamran Khairi